Cambie is a champion when it comes to crafting fine wines in the Southern Rhone. Undoubtedly one of the most influential oenologist (winemaker) in this region, for the past two decades Cambie has been a consultant to the finest wineries in France. He has been touched by the hands of Dionysus (god of wine) having already received four 100 point wines from Parker who notes Cambie as absolutely “brilliant”. Les Halos de Jupiter is the product of the harmonious working relationship between Cambie and Michel Gassier, owner of Chateau de Nages. Most of the vineyards are organically or biodynamically farmed. With only about 200 cases made each year, production is very limited.

This tantalizing blend made of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah intrigues the nose with complex aromas of blueberries and sweet spices including vanilla bean and nutmeg. These aromas unfold into notes of tobacco, dark chocolate, and raspberry jam. Upon first sip, the lavish dark fruit grabs a hold and first hits you with its powerful presence. The wine then proceeds to develop dark chocolate and earthy notes that linger on the palate for a pleasant finish. This truly is the house wine of Mount Olympics and it is available at Villa Creek!

Come join Cambie at Obscure & Rhonely Thursday April 28th at 7pm. Cambie will be in attendance, as usual, for the annual Hospice Du Rhone (HdR) celebration! Cambie, along with several other Rhone superstars will bring the spirit of the Rhone Valley to this great event that is HdR!

Obscure & Rhonely $75/person (click here for purchase)

Mike Sinor is a name sure to ring a bell around here on the Central Coast. He has been producing brilliant wines here for the past twenty years. Mike has always been deeply involved in his community, currently serving as President of the San Luis Obispo Vintners Association, holding a board position every year for the World of Pinot Noir event since first starting in 2000, and has worked at numerous wineries up and down the Central Coast. Mike stumbled into this industry in 1991 taking a job at Corbett Canyon Vineyards to fund his schooling at Cal Poly and caught the bug. The “wine bug” that is. As we like to refer to it in this industry, it’s that insatiable feeling of needing to be consumed by everything wine related. After graduating from school, Sinor decided to follow this newfound passion and work a harvest at Byron Vineyards. He eagerly moved his way up from cellar worker, to enologist, to assistant winemaker, all under the guidance of Ken Brown. Needless to say, Sinor’s experience at Byron was deeply educational and was further accentuated with two trips to France (Burgundy and the Rhone Valley) to study winemaking. His eagerness to learn and ability to combine classic French techniques with modern day practices has afforded him the luxury of being one of the most well acclaimed winemakers of this region.

Currently, Sinor crafts wines for his own label, Sinor-LaVallee, as well as Ancient Peaks Winery in Paso Robles. Sinor-LaVallee is a cross between his wife, Cheri, and his last names. He focuses on producing lavish Pinot Noirs while also making small amounts of Syrah and Pinot Gris. Each of his wines has so much character and power, with deep colors and elegant fruit. All the grapes he uses are sourced from prominent vineyards of the Central Coast specifically Talley’s Rincon vineyard, Aubaine Vineyards, and Margarita Ranch. Mike stresses the importance of family, which is evident through his beautiful label showcasing fingerprints of he, his wife, and two children, Tomas and Esmée.

The 2008 Sinor-LaVallee Pinot Noir, San Luis Obispo County, is a blend of most of the vineyards he works with. Here we have a perfectly balanced wine, with great fruit, a touch of oak and beautiful structure. With a striking aroma combined of black cherries and graham crackers, a whiff is pleasing in and of itself. This wine is remarkably lush and juicy that after my first sip it instantly left me reaching for more. Its supple mouth feel is combined with flavors of sweet oak, muddled raspberries and a slight smokiness. It embodies what a Pinot is supposed to be like without being masked by too much oak or other overwhelming flavors. This wine is friendly and approachable yet has the power to command the attention of any wine aficionado. It is clear that Mike Sinor knows what he is doing in when it comes to crafting outstanding wines.

Pictures from Sinor-La Vallee website

Just ten miles north of the famed Chateauneuf-du-Pape, lies the Gigondas, an appellation producing fine wines that will rival any coming from its well-known neighbor. Not to mention they come with a much smaller price tag than those of the Chateauneuf.  First receiving its AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlèe) distinction in 1971, this region produces bold, in-your-face wines. No whites can be found here however, only reds and a few roses. Under the rules of the AOC, the wines have certain stipulations they must heed, having to be comprised of no more than 80% Grenache, and a minimum of 15% Syrah and Mourvèdre. There is a bit of leeway in creating these powerful blends in that a maximum of 10% of any other southern Rhone varietal is permitted.

map from thelinebreak.wordpress.com

This region is deeply steeped in history dating back to the Roman era. One of the top producers here, Chateau de Saint Cosme, boasts its Roman fermentation vats perfectly intact dating back to the year 109. This estate has been in winemaker Louis Barruol’s family since 1570. Barruol swears by the outstanding location of his estate. Spanning over two geological faults, this key component harbors a diversity of soils which is critical in the success of his vineyards. His wines are powerful and robust partly in thanks to the longer hang time his grapes experience allowing for better accumulation of condensed flavors. Barruol embraces more modern ways of winemaking while still maintaining a balance of utilizing traditional methods as well. He ferments his grapes in either cement tanks or wood vats then barrel ages his wine for around 12 months. The end result? Deliciously rich and complex wines.

Domaine de Saint Cosme, 2007 Gigondas blend is the quintessential example of the remarkable wines coming out of Barruol’s cellar. It is comprised of 67% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre and 1% Cinsault. The Grenache brings notes of blackberry, sweet spice and floral characteristics found on the nose as well as the palate. Because of Grenache’s characteristically light color, Syrah helps to intensify and darken the wine while contributing nuances of cassis, pepper, and chalky minerality. Aromas and flavors of dried herbs, allspice and a slight hint of smokiness can be attributed to the addition of the Mourvèdre. The inclusion of only 1% Cinsault renders a smooth and supple texture to this wine. The 2007 Gigondas is full bodied and has a well-defined acidity with a long and pleasant finish. According to Robert Parker who scored the blend 93 points, this wine is, “one of sublime elegance and purity.” It is a blockbuster of this region and will continue to show well for the next 10 years. The 2007 Gigondas is a delicious wine that will not disappoint!

Villa Creek is constantly evolving, as I believe any and all restaurants should, to stay relevant, not trendy.  Our desire is to seem and remain timeless.  Focusing on local and sustainably grown produce, cheeses and meats we are able to avoid the pitfalls of t.v. driven food trends and stay focused on the end game. Which is…. to provide a healthy, unique and pleasant dining experience for any and all who pass through our doors.

People have often asked what is “cuisine of early California”?  To wit; It is a philosophy more than a style.  We believe in starting with good ingredients, doing as little “processing” as possible, and allowing, nay gently coaxing the inherent and natural flavors of those well farmed products to the surface for all to enjoy.

The style is based on the historic Spanish influence ingrained in California.  In 1820 the California mission system had been established all the way up through and past San Francisco.  With that came the Ranchos, which were large land grants mostly given to Spanish aritocrats who employed Native Americans as laborers and guides.  Naturally the cuisine of Spain, which had been influenced by Moorish occupation, became influenced by the native crops of corn, chiles and cacoa, as well as many others. The result in its most common form is Mexican food.  Things like Mole, and Spanish rice are just adapted Spanish cooking techniques that mutated over generations of native and mixed cultures in the Americas.  Native Americans and Mexicans used learned cooking techniques and Spanish people used native American products.  The two became like Reeces peanut butter cups. “Two great tastes that taste great together”.

The cuisine that resulted about 150 years ago was what we refer to as “Rancho-Mission”.  The influences of Moorish Spanish flavor profiles, grass fed beef, pork and lamb, native seafood, wild meats such as venison, rabbit, and game birds,freshly grown vegetable crops and pragmatic cooking techniques, such as open flame grilling, paella, and slow braising as well as curing meats and canning vegetables is where we derive our particular cuisine at Villa Creek.  We try to stick to that forum when we deliver delicious dishes to our customers.  But occasionally  we also tip our hats to the historic involvement of our Asian American populous that had  such a big influence on California. Not often, but sometimes.

I encourage you all to come and see us at Villa Creek. Enjoy our cuisine as well as the unique bar atmosphere and know that we in the kitchen are working hard to present healthy, socially conscious, options  for you to enjoy.  Our staff is knowledgeable in regards to farmers and techniques and we have been leading the way in Paso Robles for 8 years in regards to sustainable, organic and locally grown cuisine.  We look forward to seeing you soon.

Biodynamics is a subject that holds the power to conjure up the most heated and fervent debates. But, what is it really? Some define it as a holistic way of farming in which each aspect of the environment and all living organisms are cohesively intertwined. To others it is a ritualistic practice that holds little scientific backing. But to Didier Barral of Domaine Leon Barral, biodynamics is not only a means of nurturing the land in which he loves but also it is the essential foundation allowing him to fabricate his remarkable wines from.

Barral’s family estate is situated in the lesser-known appellation of Faugeres, in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. It is here that Barral cultivates 62 acres of vineyards grown on mineral rich schist soils, distinctive to Faugeres. These soils force the vine’s roots to dig deep to scavenge for water and nutrients. This process greatly stresses the vines leading to low yields of richly concentrated fruit. Barral helps to promote a synergistic and healthy environment in all that he does from allowing large populations of earthworms to inundate the soil that rouse its health and structure, to encouraging flocks of animals to roam freely throughout his vineyard eating grass and excreting natural fertilizers along the way. The land is seen as one living organism all interlaced and working together.  He is adamant about practicing natural winemaking techniques as well by stressing long maceration times, using miniscule amounts of sulfur, and bottling his wines unfiltered and unfined. His wines all undergo fermentation by native yeast found in the field as well as the cellar and can spend between 18 and 24 months in either barrel or cement tanks.

The old world techniques Barral employs in both the vineyard and the winery are in turn rendering luxurious wines which are true expressions of the terroir of his land. His goal has always been “to make something irresistible: a bottle of wine that no one would willingly leave unfinished” (Patrick Moon, Virgile’s Vineyard). For years, Barral has been doing just that, producing wines that captivate the hearts of many and keep them thirsting for more.

His 2007 Jadis, predominately comprised of Carignan and Syrah with a bit of Grenache thrown into the mix is a perfect example of his bewitching wines. The nose is dominated with bright red fruit intertwined flawlessly with notes of spice box and liquorice. Layers of freshly tilled earth, leather and fresh herbs shine amidst the fruit. Its smooth tannins and ample acidity lend themselves to the weight and power that cannot be overlooked. This wine is undoubtedly rich and complex that will engage any palate.

There is a reason the popular phrase has been coined; “in vino veritas”, in wine there is truth. The next time the subject of whether or not biodynamic practices leads to better fruit and in turn wines, the true testament lies in the bottle. Come in and try this wine, you be the judge.

Photos from  Domaine Leon Barral website

Old vine Grenache from the sandy soils of Chateau Rayas, Photo from Chateau Rayas website

Let’s take a journey to the Rhone Valley, more precisely to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the most renowned appellation of the southern Rhone. This regions name translates to “the Pope’s new castle”, in reference to when the papal court occupied the nearby town of Avignon in the 14^th century. Here, only eighteen varietals are permitted to grow. Wines from this appellation commonly consist of Grenache Noir, Syrah and Mourvèdre.  A love and respect of the land is quite apparent, as there are more organic and biodynamic vineyards in Châteauneuf than any other region in France. Flourishing in the hot, dry climate of the southern Rhone, Grenache is a star here. This playful varietal is the second most widely planted grape in the world, producing fruity and floral, low tannic wines that are deceivingly seductive.

Situated in the heart of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, reigns the legendary Chateau Rayas. Standing apart from any other estate in this appellation, Rayas has been producing spectacular and enigmatic wines since the late 1800’s.  Maintaining century-old winemaking techniques, this historic domain prides itself on keeping the integrity of their grapes’ true essence. With fifty year-old barrels seasoned from past vintages, concrete vats and a lack of stainless steel tanks, the setting instantly transports one back in time.

Emmanuel Reynaud succeeded his revered uncle Jaques in 1997, and as winemaker now, he tends the to 29 acres of Grenache Noir and 2 acres of both Clairette and Grenache Blanc (white varietals that make up Rayas’ white blend). These vines struggle in their sandy soils bearing meager yields of roughly one ton of grapes per acre. Rayas’ low yielding, old vines, harvested later than most varietals, provide an ideal canvas for Reynaud to craft his distinguished wines.

In the cellar of Chateau Ravas, Photo by Michael Davis

Pignan is the second label the estate produces and is comprised from Grenache vines that are 30 years old. The 2006 Reserve Pignan is a wonderful example of the decadent rich and fruity wines that Châteauneuf produces. Although medium in color, there is no mediocrity when it comes to its flavors and aromas.  The ripe cherry and floral notes found in the bouquet are sure to excite many. Upon first sip, the wine’s supple cherry elements shine through accompanied by hints of licorice, strawberries, clove and lavender. Pignan’s rich silky tannins are perfectly in sync with its ripe fruit and colorful acidity. Undoubtedly captivating, this wine is a true expression of Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s most regal producer. Be sure to try the 2006 Chateau Rayas Pignan and be prepared for its striking aromas and flavors to take you on your very own journey to the historic estate in which it was so lovingly crafted. cellar photo by Michael Davis

2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pignan

Anthony Yount of Kinero Cellars

Anthony Yount, a pioneer when it comes to winemaking is filling a niche. A niche centered on producing obscure white varietals and blends. With his Alice (100% Grenache Blanc), Cabrida Blanca (34% Picpoul, 33% Grenache Blanc, 33% Chardonnay) and Rustler (100% Roussanne), his wines are unique and exciting. At just 25 years old, he is the owner and winemaker of Kinero Cellars as well as head winemaker for Denner Vineyards in Paso Robles. Kinero, loosely interpreted as “a horseless herdsman”, ties in nicely with Yount’s vision of himself not solely as a winemaker, but also a shepherd guiding his wines into the direction he sees fit. I would venture to say he is a sort of “California cowboy” working and playing in Paso Robles, an appellation sometimes referred to as the “wild wild West”.

Without the constraints of Europe, where only certain varietals are permitted in designated areas, he has crafted an unorthodox blend of Rhone and Burgundian varietals. “I like to embrace the experimental side of [winemaking] and push people’s limits” referring to his Cabrida Blanca, a wine comprised of equal parts of Picpoul, Grenache Blanc and Chardonnay. The name of this blend translates to “white goat” in Spanish, and it is surely not

2009 Cabrida Blanca Kinero Cellars

a wine to be missed. Its character is splendidly unusual due to the obscurity of the blend. Picpoul, indigenous to the Rhone and Languedoc regions of France means “lip-stinger” referencing the varietal’s distinct high acid. It is generally used as a blending grape offering flavors of minerality and tropical fruits reminiscent of a piña colada. The Grenache Blanc, on the other hand, although indigenous to Spain, is the fourth most widely planted grape in France. It delivers richness and crisp acidity that can be used either used as a blending grape or stand alone. In this case, it works beautifully as a blending component where it imparts flavors and aromas of green apples and wet limestone. The most eminent varietal of this blend, Chardonnay, helps to round out the mid-palate providing the wine with body and weight. The Chardonnay imparts Meyer lemon and peach flavors that lend themselves to the juicy novelty of this exciting blend.  Because if its strong backbone and ample acidity, Cabrida Blanca is well suited as a food-friendly wine or can be enjoyed on its own. If you are presented with a chance, wrangle in this impressive and unconventional blend. Anthony Yount’s Cabrida Blanca offers sufficient insight to how winemakers in Paso Robles are taking novel approaches in order to craft exceptional and lively wines.  Photo by Bvalente at Smugmug

Once the Salsa is finished it is time to move to the tortilla.  Though either flour or corn will do, I prefer corn. The best is homemade, but store bought will do in a pinch.  Corn tortillas can be a bit stiff so making them pliable is the next step in our process.  There is the tried and true method of dipping them in hot oil or a more calorie conscience method of grilling them or warming them over the open flame of a gas burner. Any and all of these methods work. Once the tortillas are ready, gather the salsa, filling and your favorite cheese (grated).

A word about cheese; there are all kinds of cheeses that fit this dish.  You just need to decide with what you are serving these enchiladas.   Some great choices are, Bravo Farms Chipotle cheddar,  Israeli Feta, Smoked Gouda, even Pepper Jack.  Get experimental.

Once the ingredients are assembled, place a tortilla on a cutting board. Using a spoon,  place an ample amount of filling in the center of the tortilla and spread it horizontally.  Roll the bottom edge of the tortilla over the filling and tuck  it in to the other side.  They should resemble cigars.  At this point you can place them one by one in a casserole dish, ladle the sauce over them and cover them with cheese.  Place them in the oven for about twenty minutes to a half hour at about 350 degrees, or until the cheese is browned and bubbly.  You can also make them in  pairs and place them on an aluminum sheet pan or a non stick cookie sheet, cover them in sauce and cheese, and heat in oven as described above.  I have loaded some pictures of our plate up process for this recipe at the restaurant.  Please look them over and send questions if you have any.  I will be going over the re-fried black bean recipe as well as the Vegetable Succotash next week.  Enjoy the pictures and I will see you at farmers market.

2005 Vall Llach, Idus

The 2005 Vall Llach, Idus, is comprised of almost all the red varieties that are authorized in the Priorat DOC. Mainly Cariñena, accompanied with Merlot, Garnacha, Cabernet, and spot Syrah.

Salus Alvarez is a winemaker, proprietor, and is a very involved man in Priorat.  He has served as mayor of Porrera and President of the Priorat DOC.  I had the pleasure of meeting him in 2008 and he was more than hospitable, inviting me in to his three tiered cellar.  The Idus is all old vines, (80-115yr old)  steeply terraced vines that battle 1-1/2 feet of rock and limestone, these vines fight for their right to produce intense berries.

This wine is drinking amazing right now with complexity in both the nose and palette.  It is powerful and full bodied, the aromatics has plenty to offer from big ripe fruits, to cigar box and dry earthy notes.  The palette confirms the nose and has excellent structure with great harmony amongst fruit, acidity, and the silky tannins. Come in and enjoy a bottle!

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So grab a cutting board and a sharp knife, a side towel and vegetable peeler and please do not forget your favorite adult beverage.  I would suggest a nice Cotes Du Rhone white such as Tablas Creeks’ Esprit Du Beaucastel white. Or for those on a budget and looking for something quaff-able in the afternoon without too much alcohol try the Broadbent Vino Verde for a nice spritzy glass of yumminess.

With glass and knife at the ready cut the top and bottom off the squash.  These vegetables are pretty hard so it will take some force, thus the need for a sharp knife.  (later this week I will expound on the need for sharp knives in a kitchen) Once the top and bottom are removed, grab your peeler and peel the tough yellow skin off the bright orange flesh of the squash. Once the squash is peeled, cut it in half length ways, scoop out the stringy membranes and seeds, discard in your green waste along with the peelings.  Now cut the halves into large chunks and place in a baking dish.  Drizzle with a little olive oil and season with salt and pepper.  Cover with aluminum and place in a preheated 350 degree oven.  Bake until soft but not mush. Uncover and bake for an additional 15 to twenty minutes.  This evaporates some of the residual water and also adds a little caramelized flavor to the squash. While the Squash is roasting, cut the kernels off the  ears of corn.  Dice the onion, and heat a large skillet with a little olive oil.  When olive oil is shimmering add the onions and corn.  Saute corn and onions over medium low heat.  Warning: if your pan is too hot the corn will blast out of the pan in violent shots of gas propelled fits.  So please cook slowly.  Besides low and slow is almost always better, (except when dealing with Mushrooms).  Once the onions are translucent and the corn is softened and caramely, add it to the pan of cooked butternut squash. A side note:  You can also season and cook the corn on the grill, cool and then cut off the kernels.  This will give the dish a little smokey flavor that is also nice.At this point it is nice to have a potato masher.  In lew of one, you can use a large fork or spoon to mash the corn mix and the squash together.  But really, isn’t it nice to have a potato masher.  Few things are more satisfying than using the right tool, correctly, for the right job.  It seems I just channeled my father in that last statement, but it’s true.  Once the mixture in fully mixed and mashed, you have three ways to go; A. You can place it in freezer bags and freeze it for a later date. B. refrigerate it for about a week. C. Use it immediately to make the dish in question.

I will leave you to digest this portion of our journey knowing full well that you are capable of executing the entire dish on your own.  I just wanted to take it slow, more for my own benefit than yours.  This whole blogging concept has me a little in the back seat “technically”.  When next we meet, besides my rant on “sharp knives” we will be making the tomatillo salsa.  I have added a few more pictures just for fun.  Remember to love people with food as often as you can, and I will see you at the farmers market.